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Submitted on
October 30, 2013
Image Size
2.8 MB
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2848×2136
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302
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12 (who?)
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Camera Data

Make
FUJIFILM
Model
FinePix F20
Shutter Speed
1/73 second
Aperture
F/2.8
Focal Length
8 mm
ISO Speed
800
Date Taken
Oct 30, 2013, 10:30:04 PM
Software
Digital Camera FinePix F20 Ver1.00
Sensor Size
7mm
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Octobuckler 2.0 by TimeTurbine Octobuckler 2.0 by TimeTurbine
Much happier with the over shape and composition. Played with more textures and feel more prepared for #3 in this never ending search for the perfect cephalopod. Didn't use any power tools at all for this one, made from 14ga coldrolled mild steel(the thicker gauge made a big difference in what I could stretch out). 12 inch diameter, 3 inch depth. 

www.Douglaspryor.com
:iconunreal-hunter:
unreal-hunter Oct 31, 2013  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
3 inches depth, that sounds pretty far. Is that all cold worked, or did you preform hot?

the octopus looks  very realistic. the only thing I'd change would be the depth of the inner tentacle membranes. I know this is how deep they are on most species, but it gives the feel of being up too high. or that could just be the camera angle. ^^; 
Anyway, impressive octobuckler. wouldn't want that clipping my chin.
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:icontimeturbine:
TimeTurbine Oct 31, 2013  Hobbyist Traditional Artist
I shaped it cold, I annealed the edge once before the roll was put in, and I annealed the corners where 2 tentacles meet. I had to just to make sure it wasn't going to crack when I put in the small blending texture between the roll and the octopus. 

I agree for the most part on the tentacle membrane depth. I did that for a few reasons: from far away it makes the piece clearer, the fluting adds strength to the piece(it's a shield so it's going to need it), and doing that was an easy way to give depth to the suction cups.

The link below will take you to the photo I used as inspiration for this piece.
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